The Bixbys are a legendary name in the history of Long Beach and the Rancho Los Alamitos, and deservedly so. The true start of the family fortune goes back to the early 1850s when cousins Benjamin and Thomas Flint and Lewellyn Bixby returned home to Maine from Gold Rush California, where they had some success as merchants. After visiting with family, they took the train to Indiana, Illinois and Iowa and bought 2,000 sheep and drove them 2000 miles overland to California, parallelling the Oregon Trail, dealing with friendly and hostile Indians, new Mormon converts on their way to Salt Lake City, and making their way south from Salt Lake City along the Old Spanish Trail (roughly today’s Interstate 15) through the Las Vegas and Mojave deserts before arriving in San Bernardino area on New Year’s Day 1854. Thomas Flint kept a diary of that trip. Here are the July 1853 excepts.
July — Friday 1st:
A great deal of alkali water in pools injurious to sheep, lost 3 head on account of drinking it. Crossed numerous creeks and sloughs. A severe tempest about 6 o’clock with hail as large as apples. A stampede of the horses in camp in which one of ours and three of Frazer’s ran off but were captured after a good run. Ben, Lewell and I being with the sheep did not get to the camp which was pitched on Bluff Fork by the men with the cattle and horses. Blankets and provisions were brought to us and we stayed with the sheep. No camp fire for the buffalo chips were wet and no wood.
Saturday [July] 2nd:
A hard drive of 15V& miles over hilly and sandy trail but better from yesterday’s storm. Camped early on the bank of a small creek. Large white prairie wolves numerous and bold yet it is difficult to get a good shot at them. Pleasant.
Sunday [July] 3rd:
Wolves were troublesome last night but we kept them off so they did not pick up a sheep. Took some shots at them but probably did not hit for if we had the pack would have had a grand howl and killed the wounded one as istheir way of doing the wounded up for a meal. Broke camp at 8 o’clock A. M. continuing our way towards the setting sun. If able to compare mosquito-infested places we have passed through, will say that we had today the severest attack for a while, thus far of the whole season. Camped on Rattlesnake Creek. Pleasant.
Monday [July] 4th:
John Palmer from Frazer’s camp joined us this morning. Celebrated the day by having an extra supper in which doughnuts of the Yankee style were particularly prominent.
A large grey wolf beat the boys and got away with a sheep for his 4th. A suggestion from some of the party that it would be a good time to have the brandy keg brought out, but I claimed that as a part of my outfit for medicinal purposes. Gooseberries and chokeberries quite abundant on the bank of the Platt River. At night camped near Wolf Creek. Pleasant.
Tuesday [July] 5th:
Warm this morning. Drove to Castle Creek. Crossed and camped. Wolves numerous. Castle Bluff looms up on the opposite side of the river. Another road on south side. No wood along here and buffalo chips are scarce. Comfortably cool and pleasant.
Wednesday [July] 6th:
Started out early in the morning. Came upon Frazer in his camp. Hot at midday. In the afternoon passed the graves of two young men killed by lightning 12th June.
Wolves had dug down to the bodies. Hot and cold winds from showers north and south of us. Trusted the teamsters with the wagons to go ahead and select a camping place. Dark when we got to camp which we found in a low, muddy place infested with mosquitoes, higher land near by. Poor judgment in the selection. Pleasant.
Thursday [July] 7th :
More wolves and rattlesnakes this morning than usual with an occasional hissing viper, garter, green and striped snakes. Tortoises and toads plenty. All seemed out for an airing. Camped near cobble stone bluffs which look like old walls, towers and bastions. Pleasant.
Friday [July] 8th :
Found today as for some days before, wild southernwood, some summer savory and pigweed which are more pungent to take but scent the same as the cultivated. Bluffs are higher. We met a party of Indians. The first for the time since losing our sailor. Showery.
Saturday 9th:
Court House Rock nearly opposite across the Platt. It is three stories high in appearance from the different stratifications. The jail is represented by a square bluff just east of the court house. Dined near river. Drove late. Showers around us but not to reach us. Camped on side of dry bluff. Sheep came in about 10 o’clock. No water — cook failed to fill the water bags. Supper of crackers and cheese. Wolves howling round us. Clear and pleasant.
Sunday 10th:
Started early to get to water for breakfast which we got nearly north of Chimney Rock south side of river. It is a sandstone shaft, say 50 feet high standing on a conical shaped mound about twice as high. Perhaps it is a hard core left from which the softer rock has been worn away by wind, water and other eroding actions of nature. It is truly named for it stands looking like the smoke stack of a furnace. Many curious shaped bluffs in sight which the imagination may see, forms of animal life “ad libitum”. A pack of 12 or 15 wolves hanging round, one fell a victim to a rifle in the hands of Johnson.
Monday llth:
Came to a trading post and blacksmith shop run by a French Canadian living with Sioux wife or wives. The place is a little way below Scott’s Bluff. His prices, $6.00 for shoeing an ox, $1.00 per pair (one foot) for shoes and 4c apiece for nails to put them on with. We had our own so did not have to purchase. Camped opposite to the bluffs which all along are south of the river.
Tuesday 12th:
Drove to Cold Creek in the forenoon. Ben caught some fish with silvery scales and heads much like a trout — very good we found as a pan fish. Made about 12 miles and camped near some strong alkali ponds. Mosquitoes as bad as ever. Pleasant. A Mormon camped with us who had letters for the mail which is sent out from Fort Laramie monthly.
Wednesday 13th:
Passed a halfbreed and Sioux trading post where money is made by picking up lame stock or buying it cheaply and keeping it until it is in good condition and then selling or trading again. Their price, $4.00 to $10.00 for cattle and $1.00 for a sheep if it is fat. Camped by a slough. Pleasant.
Thursday 14th:
Mormon with mail found the carrier from Laramie had left before he arrived so my mail had to wait for the next. Our Mormon express men left us at 3 o’clock P. M. Dined beside the river. A train of 27 Mormon Missionaries met us here— most of them going to Europe. Two men from California also passed, who had left there May 4th. Camped on Rawhide Creek. I shot a big elk. Pleasant.
Friday 15th:
Pressing westward. Another trading post. Indians wearing their summer suits, a breech cloth. Camped on a dry plain with poor feed along the bank of the river. Very hot in the morning. Indians, traders, mountaineers, etc., numerous. Caught a lot of fish out of river.
Saturday 16th:
Drove to the river opposite to Fort Laramie. I crossed to the fort 1V& miles up the Laramie River. The old adobe fort going to ruin — one company of cavalry occupy two old wooden buildings. Officer quarters nearby, two stables and a store all in dilapidated condition. Thermometer 80° in the shade hanging on the adobe wall at noon. Made the ice water kept on hand by the barrel most inviting. Bodies of dead Indians on scaffolds in trees, blankets around them.
Sunday 17th:
Drove a few miles to grass and laid by. Mrs. Johnson made some apple pies which were relished by all. Our camp is on a point in the river. 400 head of cattle across the river. 17 horses near us. 2,000 sheep just below us. A stranger with us whose train is 30 miles ahead. Sold Wilson provisions. Cloudy.
Monday 18th:
Struck into the Black Hills. First pines and cedars close by the trail. Some very steep hills — road winding through them. Some of the hills look green, but on approaching them are barren. Camped on the river with very poor feed. Heavy shower at sunset; pleasant after it. Half breed traders or stealers near by.
Tuesday 19th:
Killed a huge yellow rattler. Drove today to Alder Clump at which there is a large spring and a trading post. Had 10 sheep poisoned by eating some poisonous vegetable. Saved five of them by giving them lard. Wolves numerous. They follow on our trail to pick up whatever there may be left when we camp. They watch the birds and when one flies down to the place we have vacated, the wolves immediately bounce in to divide the crumbs or fragments with their winged pilots. Hills on all sides. Pleasant.
Wednesday 20th :
Started early to get the animals away from the place where poison had affected our sheep particularly. Trail good. Grave by the side of the road, child of 7 years. A wild rose and prickly pear protected it to a certain extent from wild animals. Warm at noon. Dined near a creek and drove into dry bluffs. Camped. A man from Oregon travelling alone passed along.
Thursday 21st:
Air cool and bracing in the high rolling country this forenoon. Dined on the river bank. Two large droves of cattle on opposite bank. Heavy showers about 2 o’clock P. M. Passed a series of bluffs which looked like ruins of high walls. Pleasant. 29 large freight wagons loaded are opposite us over the river.
Friday 22nd:
Last night was cold. A man from California 41 days out with pack mules took breakfast with us. Passed a ferry across North Platt this morning. A very heavy shower fell upon us just as we were entering a rough gulch filled with isolated bluffs and bowlders. Drove until about dark and camped on a knoll under a bluff. No grass near.
Saturday 23rd :
After a drive over a rough trail until 10 o’clock A. M. came to feed for our stock. Made camp for the day — concluding to observe a Jewish sabbath. Now making short drives daily. Six men from California camped near us who gave us much information about the route ahead of us. Windy but otherwise pleasant.
Sunday 24th:
Cloudy this morning with a sprinkle of rain. Barren country. Crossed the highest ridge of the Black Hills as they break down at the Platt River. Camped at 2 o’clock on bank of river and swam the oxen and cows across to the Nebraska side for grass. Cattle took a notion to go back east down the river. I crossed in a dugout made from a crooked log evidently for crossing feed to the side we were on, by using two of them with cross poles pinned on the top of each. Cattle got away some 5 miles before I overtook them and drove them back. Johnson came over on horseback to help as I got to bank with them. Saw the finest specimen of Elk that I have ever met, for he came within a hundred feet of me before he stopped and seemed as much interested in me as was desirable. Expecting that I might get upset in the river I had left my weapons in camp, therefore did not want any closer acquaintance. I admired his proud bearing nevertheless. On my attempt to recross the river my dugout struck a snag and overturned, dumping me into the river, so I had to swim for shore pushing my craft ahead of me. The ice cold water chilled me through. It was then the brandy we had along and had not been opened, came in good request. With a liberal drink I rolled up in my blankets and in a little time was in a good perspiration.
Monday 25th :
Felt pretty stiff in the joints. Took an active cathartic. Rode in a wagon. Mrs. Johnson riding my horse. At night felt quite comfortable. The Wilson Brothers came up with us with their flock of sheep Camped in the bluffs on a bed of sand. Cool7 wolves are very noisy, it seems from their howling that they are without number.
Tuesday 26th:
Took a light breakfast of soda biscuit and buffalo meat. Getting over my cold. Road very rough off and on the bank of the river. Dined on same Bill of fare as at breakfast with tea in addition. Fishing much better though my limbs are stiff from my muscular exercise swimming in the ice cold water of the Platt. Cattle got away from us on the road ahead. Could not find them before night. Pleasant.
Wednesday 27th:
Ben, Lewell and Mr. Johnson started at 3 o’clock in the morning after the oxen, following their trail, which we had traced some 7 miles the night before. Returned with them at 3 o’clock P. M. I took care of camp. Had a visit by an Indian and his family who in pantomine tried to let me know that there were bad Indians ahead, but did not 7. Coulee?
fully understand him until next day. Lost a batch of hot biscuits when they left. Bought a riata for a pint cup of sugar.
Did not move today. The longest stop since leaving the Missouri River. Pleasant.
Thursday 28th:
Cattle seemed possessed with a roving spirit and would run off at every opportunity. This morning they made a break and swam across the river. I went after them on “Old Nig,” a black horse ridden by Mr. Bixby. Don’t think the horse was ever before in water when he had to swim, for he went down all under without making an effort to swim until I spurred him severely. Could not get the cattle to take the water on return. Palmer swam across to help me and together we handled them. Palmer got frightened going over, although a good swimmer, having been a sailor on the Lakes, but the undertow scared him, so I crossed and got a rope, in that way towed him across to camp. Old Nig remembering the lesson swam nicely — though this time we found a crossing nearly fordable. After dinner we drove along until about 3 o’clock with the wagons some distance in the lead, while I was a little in advance of them as usual when I saw a deer ahead and to the right of the trail. Taking a double-barrelled shotgun loaded with revolver bullets I swung off to try for a shot, but I was discovered by the animal and it soon was out of sight. I returned to the road some half a mile or so ahead of the wagons and as I was crossing a little elevation I caught a glimpse of a party of Indians moving through a patch of willow bushes not quite as high as their heads. In an instant and all together they dropped out of sight. There was time however to see that they were moving camp, and Indians, squaws and papooses did not make a rustle even. I remained at my point of observation thinking they would emerge from the brush which came up to the road. The squaws and young ones did not show up, but I think slipped away down the bed of a small stream which was close by.
Presently an old one-eyed mean looking cuss of an Indian with a boy of 15 or 16 years, came up on horseback from quite a different direction from where I had discovered them at first and taking positions each side of me — the boy
calling the old one Captain with a motion of his hand towards me as if by way of an introduction. The Captain was armed with a flint lock old English musket and the young one with bow and arrows. The Captain pointing to my Navy pistol said pop, pop, pop. I nodded in the affirmative. I knew the advantage was on my side with a six shooter and double-barrelled gun and percussion caps.
The young scamp commenced to draw up his bow with an arrow intimidatingly — each time a little stronger until I thought it was high time it was stopped lest he might let fly at me. I was more afraid of the arrow than of the musket — therefore mentally decided that if the motion was again made I would shoot him, but made no demonstration or motion to use my revolver whereupon the boy meekly dropped his bow and arrow down by his side. The old Indian moved a little higher up the hill and holding his musket
a few seconds at “present arms” brought it down and put some powder into the pan of the lock. I made some signs to Ben and Lewell who were some distance behind with the men with the sheep when the Captain and boy started to meet them.
When the wagons arrived I told them to drive to a level place nearly opposite the brush where the Indian party was seen and stop for the arrival of the rest of the men with the sheep. Soon after halting an half dozen Indians bounced out of the brush and commenced to pillage the wagons.
The teamsters Johnson, Palmer and Jennings were scared out of their wits and offered no resistance but Mrs. Johnson went after their hands with a hatchet when they went to help themselves to things in her wagon. I found it was necessary for me to put on airs, so went to the wagons scolding the teamsters and ordering the Indians by signs to put everything back they had taken from the wagons. They were sulky and one of them taking an ox yoke bow he had taken by the ends made a motion to strike me with it whereupon I brought my pistol to bear upon him with the intention of shooting when he dropped the bow and every one of them got off to the opposite side of their horses. Then I knew that I was master of the situation. Furthermore I knew they were not prepared for a fight as if they were, they would not have their squaws and papooses along with them. We waited until the men with the sheep came up to us and got all of us around for it being a warm day the men had put their weapons into the wagons excepting Ben and Lewell, who from my signals surmised something was wrong ; when my first two Indians approached them they put their pistols under their clothing with just a little of them in sight. The other men did the same with their clothing but had no weapons yet the Indians supposed they had, probably. After we were all armed I felt better able to manage affairs, though I knew by the experience that four of our party could not be depended upon in a fight.
Two more Indians joined those already present — one of them with a certificate that they were Good Indians. It was written in faultless penmanship expressing the hope we would treat them well so we gave them some hardtack and a sheep that was lame. They did not seem satisfied.
After we had got our train in close order we told the boys to start ahead; as they moved the old one-eyed Captain said to his Indians in Spanish that they would not let us go until they had the black cow and the sheep that had bells on, and told his boy to go ahead and stop us. The boy started and when nearly ahead we told him in Spanish to come back. As he started to obey the command the old one- eyed Captain called him derisively a boy and said he would stop the train until they had what they wanted. He started and when part way round we levelled our rifles on him and told him to come back ; he hesitated a little but came back to where the other Indians were.
As we were moving on the old Captain got down on one knee and levelled his gun at us which frightened two of our men so, they ran for shelter, much to the delight of the Indians. Just at that time a report came that the black cow was missing. Supposing the Indians had slipped put of the brush and cut her out we made a rush for the Indian when they rushed into the brush for shelter. Then it was out turn to laugh as the cow was only a little way off when found browsing. The Indians were very greatly surprised when they found we could use the Spanish language. We found that they were a hunting and marauding party of Arapahoes from Texas and the Indian visitor of yesterday was not friendly with them. In the party we learned there were about 90 young and old.
We drove some six miles and camped on a round knoll away from brush and gulches with the stock all around us, for our men could see Indians everywhere. Windy.
Friday 29th :
No disturbance during the night and there was no sleeping on guard. Passed a bridge across the Platt — a very strong one built of hewn timbers. Reported to have cost $14,000. All trains on south side of the Platt cross here to north side. Camped on bank of river 3 or 4 miles above the bridge in a large bottom extending back from river bank — 18 miles above the bridge there is a ford at this season of the year. Found a nitrous deposit on a hill, a kind of a lake bed on summit. Pleasant.
Saturday 30th:
Followed up the Platt River to the point where we leave it for good and halted for dinner. Horses stampeded, frightened by a trader’s wagon carrying a flag. They ran back to a camp about 3 miles behind us. Took in wood and water and drove out a few miles on an alkali plain. Showers in the afternoon but pleasant at night. Getting along all right. Supplied some Mormon families with provisions to take them to Salt Lake City, they having been robbed by the Good Indians. 5 families of foreigners, mostly English. The women said they were prodded with arrows to make them to hurry up the cooking for them.
Sunday 31st:
Mr. Jennings gave us a scare on his guard by shooting at what he supposed to be an Indian creeping into camp, but it proved to be a sheep that had strayed. It was a good long shot but he hit his mark and killed the sheep. Our men have been very timid since the man was killed from our party. Broke camp for Willow Springs. No good water between the Platt and the Springs. Passed Avenue Rocks and Poison Springs, arriving at Willow Springs about 10 o’clock P. M. Camped. No grass. 700 miles from the Missouri River. An uncomfortable place. Clear and cold.
June 1853 — August 1853